Lhotse Part I

Lhotse means South Peak in the Tibetan language. With its 8.516m, Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world.

It is located in the Everest massif. The Lhotse standard climbing route follows the same path as Everest’s South Col route up to the Yellow Band beyond Camp 3. After that, the routes split. Everest climbers continue left over the Geneva Spur up to the South Col, while Lhotse climbers take a right further up the Lhotse face.

Then they continue through the narrow Lhotse couloir also called “Reiss couloir” with an angle of 40° to 50°until the Lhotse’s knife edge summit ridge.

Climbing Lhotse and Everest in one push, the so called “Everest Combo” saves money, time and effort. It’s also about overcoming the own limits and learning to manage the own physical and mental energy. The body and mind have to function in those extreme conditions in the death zone for two 8000 meters peaks. Most will give all their energy when climbing Everest. They know, they are coming down afterwards. I had to leverage the amount of energy, I have to spend in Everest to have some spare capacity for Lhotse. I kept repeating this to myself as a kind of programming my own mind. This was a great lesson learned.

The route shows Lhotse Camp 4

Lhotse summit push

My Everest climb went very well (See my Everest Blog).

After coming back to the South Col in the morning of May 22nd, I tried to get some rest. I had been awake for 28 hours. Luckily, I was able to sleep and eat. I packed all my stuff, that will be carried to Camp 2 and at midnight I was ready to go.

It was me with my Sherpa and another climber from the Golf with his private guide and Sherpa. Sherpa is someone who is part of an ethnic group in the mountains of Nepal.

We went down until Lhotse Camp 4, in which we stored our stuff like sleeping bags, mattresses etc. before we started our ascent. There were fixed ropes all the way up.

Everest Camp 4, far above the sky!

Other Posts


Mount Vinson – 7 Summits


Mont Blanc Part III: Traversing


Mont Blanc Part II: Les Trois Monts